Detail matters
The specifics of how we do lighting installation.
Good lighting design changes how you experience a room without you being able to say exactly why. Bad lighting design you notice every time you walk in. The difference is in the details — beam angles, layering, colour temperature, and dimming.
Recessed downlights done properly
Downlights are a tool, not a default. Where they're used, we specify fire-rated fixtures with 60° or 90° beam angles depending on ceiling height, spaced to give even wash without pooling, and driven by dimmable drivers matched to the switch. We avoid the '4x4 grid on the ceiling' look wherever possible in favour of task-and-accent layouts.
Kitchen lighting layers
A proper kitchen scheme is three layers — general lighting from downlights or pendants, task lighting from under-cabinet strip over the worktop, and accent lighting inside glass cabinets or over an island feature. Each on a separate switch so you can light for prep, for dining, or for a coffee at 6 am without flooding the whole room.
Bathroom lighting and IP ratings
Zone 1 and Zone 2 fittings must carry the correct IP rating (IP65 typically) and be fed from an RCD-protected circuit. Warm-white LED downlights over the vanity, an IP65-rated fitting inside the shower, and mirror lighting for actual usability. All to BS 7671 Section 701.
Living rooms and bedrooms
Warm 2700 K, dimmable, and layered — a central fixture for cleaning, lamp circuits switched from the door for evening, and wall lights or picture lights for atmosphere. Bedrooms almost always benefit from independently switched bedside pendants dimmed low.
Outdoor and garden lighting
IP-rated fixtures, low-voltage where practical, and photocell or smart-hub control so it comes on at dusk without you touching a switch. Uplights on trees, path markers, and downlights on soffits create depth that solar spike lights never will. See our garden electrics page for the wider outdoor package.